Hole In The Wall



= 密造酒。

いつも面白くinformativeなEaterだけれど、今回のは大変興味深く、かつ深いコラム。どっちかといえば掘り下げ方が今は亡きLucky Peach系。


Craft culture has seeped into cities and spread throughout the country, bearing the fruits of bean-to-bar chocolate and traditional butchery and single-barrel whiskeyancient-grain breads and heritage-breed pigs and heirloom corn and $8 mayoand $12 ice creamlocal honey and local beer and local pickles 

んで、このコラムでは "craft"文化をこう表現している。

Craft culture tells mostly white stories for mostly white consumers, and they nearly always sound the same: It begins somewhere remote-sounding like the mountains of Cottonwood, Idaho, or someplace quirky like a basement in Fort Collins, Colorado, or a loft in Brooklyn, where a (white) artisan, who has a vision of back in the day, when the food was real and the labor that produced it neither alienated nor obscured — and discovers a long-forgotten technique, plucked from an ur-knowledge as old as thought and a truth as pure as the soul. 

白人の白人消費者向けの文化。人里離れたところで白人の職人が伝統手法を発掘する、というストーリー。あ、これはまさにTartineのChad Robertsonのストーリーと一致。まあ彼の場合、伝統手法が商用イースト使用以前のフランス長時間発酵パンなんだけど、このコラムのストーリーは別方向へ。取り上げてるのがアメリカオリジンの伝統手法、例としてウィスキー&密造酒。

Part of this hidden history includes the revelation that six slaves were critical to the operation of George Washington’s distillery, and that the eponymous Jack Daniel learned to make whiskey from an enslaved black man named Nathan “Nearest” Green. As Clay Risen reported for the New York Times last year, contrary to the predominant narrative that views whiskey as an ever “lily-white affair,” black men were the minds and hands behind American whiskey production. “In the same way that white cookbook authors often appropriated recipes from their black cooks, white distillery owners took credit for the whiskey,” he writes.  


The history of barbecue in America is, unlike whiskey or moonshine, so inescapably black that it has been impossible to completely whitewash that legacy, one succinctly encapsulated by Lauren Collins in the New Yorker: 


"craft"="whitewash"なんだったらそんなのやめちまえ、とも思う。そんなこと考えるとBywaterでPo Boyとか食べるのはまさにこの"craft"に当てはまるんだよなぁ。ちと複雑。